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Asphalt Shingles
Asphalt roof shingles are the most common covering used on residential properties in North America. Early shingles were made by saturating rag-felts with asphalt and by
 coating each side of the saturated felt with an asphalt-mineral filler-coat, covering the top surface of the shingle with mineral granules (sunlight and weather resistance) and coating the bottom surface with a material to prevent shingles from sticking together in storage or shipment. Beginning in the 1940's the felt mat was changed to a zero rag-content using wood
 fibers and cellulose (newspaper). More recently many manufacturers began
producing shingles using a fiberglass mat to replace the felt. The fiberglass mat was thought to have good tear resistance, possibly slightly better fire resistance, and as the mat was generally thinner than the felt mat, we believe that there were also economic advantages for both the manufacturer (less asphalt used in the mat) and the roofing installer (lighter material, easier to install).
To view specific
information about our Asphalt Shingles, please click on
the product of your
choice below:
Underlayment - First, we install waterproofing underlayment or ice and water shield, 6' up the eaves on the home, 3' up the eaves on the garage, 18" on each side of the valley and at all wall lines. We also install this around chimneys, vent pipes and satellites. This helps prevent leaks from water build up under ice dams in cold weather. It also keeps wind driven rain from working
its way in between the shingles and the roof deck. To protect the rest of the roof deck area, prior to shingling, we install 15# roofing felt.
Starter row - We install a starter row at eaves and at rake  edges, with the glue strip towards the outer edge of your roof. This ensures that high winds will not flip your shingles up, and eventually blow them off.
Flashing - Next, we install 26 gauge galvanized sheet metal into a roof system's various joints, where the roof joins a wall, and at valleys, where 2 sections of a roof meet to prevent water seepage.
Metal drip edge - This is an optional service that we recommend. This adds additional protection to the edge of your roof from wind-driven rain and ice back ups.
Venting - We either install galvanized metal vents because they do not crack, or on certain roof types, ridge vent is the preferred vent system.
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Wood Shingles and Wood Shakes
Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern pine and other woods; their natural look is popular in California, the Northwest and parts of the Midwest. Wood shingles are machine sawn; shakes are handmade, thicker, and rougher looking.
Cedar shake shingles add a beautiful touch to your home. In addition to their attractive appearance, they offer unbeatable strength, high
 insulation value, unique texture and are naturally resistant to decay.
In order to get the maximum amount of use out of your cedar shake roof, it is important to have the roof treated with a wood preservative. You will need to have the equipment to complete the work without damaging the cedar shakes or shingles. Most cedar roofs can be cleaned and treated without pressure washing. Pressure washing often damages cedar (and other types of) roofing, and should be avoided.
Underlayment - First, we install waterproofing underlayment or ice and water shield, 6' up the eaves on the home, 3' up the eaves on the garage, 18" on each side of the valley and at all wall lines. We also install this around chimneys, vent pipes and satellites. This helps prevent leaks from water build up under ice dams in cold weather. It also keeps wind driven rain from working its way in between the shingles and the roof deck. To protect the rest of the roof deck area, prior to shingling, we install 15# roofing felt.
Flashing - Next, we install 26 gauge galvanized sheet metal into a roof system's various joints, where the roof joins a wall, and at valleys, where 2 sections of a roof meet to prevent water seepage.
Metal drip edge - This is an optional service that we recommend. This adds additional protection to the edge of your roof from wind-driven rain and ice back ups.
Venting - We either install galvanized metal vents because they do not crack, or on certain roof types, ridge vent is the preferred vent system.
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Roof Hazards
A roof's performance can be optimized by the homeowner. Knowing the following facts can help prolong your roof's life.
Snow and ice: Melting snow often refreezes at a roof's overhang where the surface is cooler, forming an ice dam. This blocks proper drainage into the gutter. Water backs up under the shingles or shakes and seeps into the interior. During the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair or even torn off a house or building. These should be kept clean if possible.
Condensation: One of the most critical factors in roof system durability is proper ventilation. Without it, heat and moisture build up in an attic area and combine to cause rafters and sheathing to rot, shingles to buckle, and insulation to lose its effectiveness. Proper attic ventilation will help prevent structural damage caused by moisture, increase roofing material life, reduce energy consumption and enhance the comfort level of the rooms below the attic. Sufficient attic ventilation can be achieved by installing larger or additional vents and will help alleviate problems because the attic air temperature will be closer to the outside air temperature.
Moss and algae: Moss can grow on moist wood shingles and shakes. Once it grows, moss holds even more moisture to a roof system's surface, causing rot. In addition, moss roots also can work their way into a wood deck and structure. Algae also grows in damp, shaded areas on wood or asphalt shingle roof systems. Besides creating a black-green stain, algae can retain moisture, causing rot and deterioration. Trees and bushes should be trimmed away from homes and buildings to eliminate damp, shaded areas, and gutters should be kept clean to ensure good drainage.
Trees and leaves: Tree branches touching a roof will scratch and gouge roofing materials when the branches are blown by the wind. Falling branches from overhanging trees can damage, or even puncture, shingles and other roofing materials. Leaves on a roof system's surface retain moisture and cause rot, and leaves in the gutters block drainage.
Missing or torn shingles: The key to a roof system's effectiveness is complete protection. When shingles are missing or torn off, a roof structure and home or building interior are vulnerable to water damage and rot. The problem is likely to spread-nearby shingles also are ripped easily or blown away. Missing or torn shingles should be replaced as soon as possible.
Shingle deterioration: When shingles are old and worn out, they curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. Weakened shingles easily are blown off, torn or lifted by wind gusts. The end result is structural rot and interior damage. A deteriorated roof system only gets worse with time-it should be replaced as soon as possible.
Flashing deterioration: Many apparent roof leaks really are flashing leaks. Without good, tight flashings around chimneys, vents, skylights and wall/roof junctions, water can enter a home or building and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems. Flashings should be checked as part of a periodic roof inspection and gutter cleaning.
Aesthetic or Cosmetic Concerns: Some consumers have concerns with how their shingles look on the roof as much as with how long the roof will last. Roofing manufacturers offer a wide variety of products that give different "looks" and shadings. It's possible that in addition to site and installation conditions, variations in manufacturing process (granule adhesion, bleed-through) can affect how the roof looks from the ground. There will also be variations in the roof surface when there are shadows appearing in early morning or late afternoon (Some shadows which are only of cosmetic nature may be caused by slight buckling or unevenness in the roof decking and may not indicate a structural or durability concern.)
If you have particular concerns about roof appearance ask your roofer if he can direct you to a house where the product that interests you is already installed. Remember that site differences (orientation to sun, shade trees, height above ground, roof pitch, and probably other factors) may make shingles look a bit different on your house.
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